Story & Photos by Becky Speere
It’s more than breakfast. It’s comfort food. Done right, that first meal of the day can satisfy any flavor cravings. Here are a few of our favorite taste-bud-pleasing eateries on Maui’s south and north shores, plus one Upcountry. (Next issue: great breakfast cafes and restaurants on Maui’s west side.)
Warm croissants, fresh from the oven, fill the room with buttery yumminess just as the first omelet of the day — mine — is placed in front of me. Organic eggs scrambled with sundried tomatoes and green onions create the perfect wrap for a generous portion of sautéed mushrooms, tomatoes and spinach.
One of my early culinary jobs was at this very deli; periodically, I drop in for one of the best cappuccinos in town and tender, crunchy croissants. As I sit on the deck overlooking sleepy Makawao town, St. Joseph’s steeple in the trees beyond, I reminisce about my two years at Casanova’s and the four-in-the-morning work shift. Chef Rishi continues the tradition, although he smartly begins his day later, producing such specials as arancini (deep-fried rice balls with mozzarella) and lasagna made with fresh, house-made pasta. Pasta salads, Caprese and tiramisu have been standard fare since 1987, when four partners opened the deli. One of them, Steve Burgelin, joins me for a few minutes and says in his lilting Italian, “Ciao, Becky!” His energy is as high and upbeat as when I first met him. “The deli is going strong and we’re fortunate to have a great staff that cares about the business,” he tells me. Indeed, not much has changed, not even the prices. 1188 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, 572-0220. CasanovaMaui.com/bc/casanova-makawao/deli/